Chabahar Day 4: Face-to-Face with the Gando (Mugger Crocodile)

Day 4
March 22 (3rd of Farvardin)
After breakfast, it was time to explore the Khor Bahu International Wetland and Govater Bay. This stunning 75,000-hectare reserve is home to diverse wildlife, hosting over 192 resident and migratory bird species—including ospreys, Dalmatian pelicans, marsh harriers, and white-tailed sea eagles. Everywhere you looked, flocks of birds were soaring across the sky. A truly bird-filled horizon!

Khaled called out and invited me aboard his boat to head toward the mangrove forests (Hara). Drifting across the water was magical: on one side, birds flew past; on the other, peculiar mangrove trees stood half-submerged, their exposed roots rising above the tide. Since it was Khaled's personal boat rather than a commercial rental, there was zero rush—I could fully immerse myself in the serene surroundings, taking endless photos and videos.

On the return trip, Khaled handed me the helm, and 'Captain Baba Mohammad' steered the boat all the way back. It was an exhilarating experience—riding the waves, feeling the cool sea spray against my face, and adding a dash of playful adrenaline behind the wheel!

After stepping ashore, I walked away from the beach. Passing thatched fishing huts, I came across an ancient cemetery where, instead of typical headstones, raw natural stones matching the regional soil lay over each grave. Many legends surround this burial site. Emran Hoth, a local tourism activist from Chabahar, attributes these graves to the historic Gabr (Zoroastrian) community—echoing Rumi's famous verse: 'Come, come, whoever you are; wanderer, idolater, worshipper of fire, come.'

Khaled, our host, explained that around three centuries ago, Govater was the primary local fishing harbor lined with large merchant shops, suggesting the graves belong to those early fishermen and traders. Meanwhile, researcher Mahmoud Zand Moghaddam, author of the seven-volume Hikayat-e Baloch, refers to it as the Bahraman Cemetery.

The longest river emptying into Govater Bay is the 340-kilometer Bahu Kalat River, famed primarily as the natural habitat of the mugger crocodile (the Gando). Alongside Yaser and Mohammad, we drove toward Bahu Kalat village to see the Gandos up close. We made a brief stop in the town of Nobandian, where Amer joined us—a teenage boy of mixed Iranian-Pakistani descent. He hadn't served mandatory military service and had an unconventional way of traveling abroad: he would slip across the border into Pakistan, live freely as a Pakistani citizen, and travel internationally. He had even flown to Oman twice on a Pakistani passport, remarking that with a Pakistani passport you can travel anywhere, provided it carries no Iranian visa stamps.

We arrived at Bahu Kalat and the Shajareh Ecolodge—the renowned sanctuary where one can meet the Gandos up close. Upon arrival, Mr. Malek Dinar Shajareh warmly welcomed us. Malek Dinar's entry into tourism mirrored Khaled's journey: years ago, a solo backpacker became his guest. When the traveler prepared to leave at nightfall, the host insisted, true to local custom, that he stay overnight.

The Balochi have an ancient sacred tradition called Mayar Jali. Mayar means seeking refuge, and Mayarjal refers to the person seeking sanctuary. Should any harm befall a protected guest, it brings deep disgrace upon the host clan—a profound hospitality ethic closely tied to the concept of Aman mentioned earlier.

The backpacker stayed for several days, lending a hand with farm chores. Malek Dinar owns a verdant date grove and banana orchards that are well worth exploring. Seeing the property and its proximity to the natural crocodile pools, the inspired traveler suggested turning the home into an ecolodge to host travelers and earn an income.

Shajareh Ecolodge boasts an expansive courtyard capable of parking two tour buses or over ten cars, complete with clean, modern Western and squat toilets and showers. The main house retains its authentic, unaltered architecture, with Malek Dinar and his family residing in one of the rooms—a charming home filled with vintage artifacts resembling a living museum.

Mr. Shajareh finances food for the marsh crocodiles out of pocket using his tourism earnings. In 2018 (1397), the 'Nazr-e Tabiat' conservation initiative funded a 260-liter deep freezer so he could easily store the large quantities of poultry needed to feed the crocodiles.

After savoring a cup of delicious cardamom-infused milk tea, we set off for Kolani village, located 70 kilometers from Bahu Kalat and 60 kilometers from Govater. We were fortunate enough to have scored an invitation to a traditional village wedding.

Parking the car, I spotted a lineup of twenty brand-new Toyota Land Cruisers sporting Free Trade Zone license plates—a breathtaking fleet of heavy-duty beasts commonly utilized for cross-border fuel transport. Because this entire territory falls within the Chabahar Free Trade Zone, high-displacement off-road vehicles like Land Cruisers, Hiluxes, and Prados are remarkably ubiquitous.

The sheer volume of parked vehicles reflected the massive scale of the wedding, drawing guests from across Iranian Balochistan and Pakistani Balochistan. Large carpets covered the village grounds where guests sat in orderly rows. The gathering was so massive that sodas and dinner salads were hauled in using a five-ton refrigerated truck! I heard over 300 kilograms of goat meat were prepared for the feast.

The groom was a cleric (Mullah), meaning there was no traditional dance or live music. Yet it proved to be a golden opportunity for me to chat with guests who had traveled from Pakistan. Visiting Pakistan has always been a dream of mine—I often picture myself sitting in a bustling Karachi teahouse, sipping hot milk tea amid colorful painted trucks and lively street banter.

Dinner consisted of savory spiced rice paired with goat stew, traditionally eaten by hand without silverware. I reached into my waist pack for my camping spoon and dug in. As mentioned, with a religious groom, the public gathering remained quiet and formal; the lively festivities were likely happening in the women's quarters, tucked away from our view.